I’ve been asked by many friends outside Texas: Why haven’t you visited Big Bend National Park yet? Isn’t it right there in your state? I always had the same answer—No way. It’s almost an eight-hour drive! But after finally making the trip, I can say this with confidence: it was absolutely worth it. I’m forever grateful to my past self for deciding to brave the long stretches of Texas highway. Please join me in exploring Big Bend National Park and all the stops and stories along the way.
Day 1: Houston → San Antonio
I arrived in San Antonio in the afternoon and rewarded myself with a plate of authentic Texas barbecue— after all, there’s no better way to kick off a road trip than with brisket and pork ribs!
As a history lover, I couldn’t resist visiting the San Antonio Missions, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a remarkable testament to Spanish colonial history in the 17th and 18th centuries. I began at Mission Espada, the farthest from downtown, then worked my way back to Mission San Juan, Mission San José, and Mission Concepción. Each mission had its own character—weathered stone walls, quiet courtyards, and a sense of time standing still.
Finally, I visited the most iconic site of all: the Alamo, formerly Mission San Antonio de Valero. The Battle of the Alamo remains a defining moment in Texas history and is central to the state’s patriotic education today.
Just across from the Alamo lies the San Antonio River Walk, where I hopped on a narrated barge tour—an easy, relaxing way to end the day.
I returned to my Airbnb early to rest, knowing that a long drive awaited me the next morning.
Day 2: San Antonio → Alpine
Instead of taking the faster I-10 route, I chose the more scenic U.S. Route 90, which runs parallel to the U.S.–Mexico border. The drive was peaceful and wide open—classic West Texas landscape.
I made a stop at the Amistad National Recreation Area, where the white shore contrasted beautifully with the deep blue water of the International Amistad Reservoir. As usual, I visited the visitor center and collected another cancellation stamp for my National Park Passport.
By the time I reached Alpine, known as “The Gateway to Big Bend,” night had already fallen. I grabbed dinner at a local Chinese restaurant and settled into my hotel. Camping has never been my thing, so hotels were my base throughout this trip. I went to bed early, eager for the days ahead.
Day 3: First Day in Big Bend
After a quick hotel breakfast and picking up a Subway sandwich for lunch, I finally drove toward Big Bend National Park. The remoteness was overwhelming. It took an hour just to reach the park sign from Alpine, then another thirty minutes to the first visitor center. The land grows increasingly barren as the mountains rise in the distance. There is no lush greenery, but the sparseness has its own beauty.
In the afternoon, I hiked the Lost Mine Trail, a 4.8-mile round trip in the Chisos Mountains. The climb offered sweeping views of canyons and ridges stretching endlessly toward Mexico. Reaching the top felt like standing on the edge of the world.
Day 4: Crossing Into Boquillas, Mexico
Before heading back into the park, I briefly explored the campus of Sul Ross State University, a charming and quiet college tucked into the high desert. Then, following the familiar route into Big Bend, I drove to the Boquillas Crossing Port of Entry. This is one of the few places where you can cross into Mexico on foot—well, almost. First, I boarded a small locally operated rowboat across the Rio Grande, then rode a burro to the village center.
Boquillas del Carmen is a tiny town unmistakably built around tourism, featuring handmade craft stalls and warm, welcoming locals. I spent about an hour exploring before returning to the U.S. side.
Afterward, I stopped at the Boquillas Canyon Overlook, where the river cuts a dramatic path through steep cliffs. The soft afternoon light made the canyon glow.
Day 5: River Day
I had booked a half-day Big Bend River Tour, scheduled for 1:30 PM. With the morning free, I drove into the park again to explore the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. Although I didn’t have enough time to reach the Santa Elena Canyon Overlook, I still enjoyed incredible views of layered mesas, volcanic formations, and broad desert valleys.
In the afternoon, the tour company shuttled us to Big Bend Ranch State Park, where we boarded canoes and floated gently down the canyon. The water was calm, the cliffs towering, and the entire experience was peaceful in its own way, allowing one to appreciate the landscape.
Day 6: Alpine → Fort Stockton → Houston
A sudden cold wave brought freezing temperatures in the morning, but I continued my plan to visit a few sites on the return journey. My first stop was Fort Stockton, a historic settlement built around Comanche Springs, once one of the largest natural springs in Texas.
Closer to Houston, I stopped by the Stonehenge II, a quirky Texan homage to the original Stonehenge in England. Having visited the real one in Salisbury, I was amused to compare the two. Though smaller and more whimsical, Stonehenge II still makes for a surprisingly atmospheric stop.
Conclusion
This road trip changed my understanding of Texas. I had always imagined Big Bend as a faraway corner of the state—too remote, too empty, too long a drive. But it is precisely that remoteness that makes it unforgettable. The vast landscapes, quiet nights, unexpected cultural encounters, and the simple joy of driving long, open roads all made the journey as meaningful as the destination. If you ever find yourself hesitating because the drive seems too long, take my advice: go anyway. Big Bend will reward you in ways you don’t yet expect.
About the Author:
Bohan Zhang is a Ph.D. Candidate in History. He earned his bachelor’s degree from Tsinghua University and holds two master’s degrees from Oxford and UChicago, respectively.
Further Reading:
Day Trip from Rice: Immerse Yourself in Texas History
Exploring Historic Houses in Houston
A traveler’s guide to your great American road trip